Monday, February 17, 2014

How to sew a corset - Part 3 Sewing...

Since we inserted to busk last time, we will now continue to sew the whole corset. The method I'm using here was originally shown in my favourite forum by the amazing user Rubicon. I know her in real life now and can testify that she is and amazing seamstress and sews the prettiest corsets! Anyhow, this method has some advantages and disadvantages:

  • the method is relatively easy
  • the seams of the outside and inside match perfectly
  • it is easy to integrate casings for the bones
  • You have to sew the whole corset before you can try it on. If you sew outside and inside separately, you can use the inside (lining) as a muslin were you can already integrate changes before sewing the outer shell.
  • If you want additional contrast casing for your bones, you loose one advantage of the method
  • If you need additional bones, you will have to sew on those casings additionally (but you will have to anyway ^^)
I really like it because it is faster and looks nice from the inside.And since my corset pattern is tried and true, I do not have to make changes to it. We left the corset with pattern piece one sewn together and the busk inserted:

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The next step is to make a sandwich of the pattern pieces 2 and the pieces 1. For this, you have to put the right sides of the outer fabric together and the right sides of the lining. Please be careful to match the pattern markings, otherwise your corset will have a different size that the pattern:

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Since I'm not the best drawer in the world, I'm borrowing an explanatory picture from Jana Keeler, who -unlike me who forgot about it-  also included a non-stretchy twill tape to stabilise the waistline:

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After you pinned all layers together, you will sew the together in one go, always carefully staying on the line markings. When you are finished with your seam, take the corset to the ironing board and iron the pieces flat again from both sides (lining and outer fabric):

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Now we will make the bone cases. You can either insert a bone (I use mainly spiral steel bones for my corsets) on the side of the new seam which is pattern piece 2 or you can measure the width of a bone, add 3mm and draw this as a guiding line. If you inserted the bone, use a zipper foot for sewing as close to the bone as possible. Otherwise just carefully stick to the markings you made:

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This bone is just an example! The correct bone would fit over the whole casing!
Aaaaaand you are done with the second pattern piece! Now move on to the third. Again carefully pin both new pattern pieces to the pattern pieces 2 (right on right), sew, iron, and make the bone casing. You can now watch your corset grow!

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I didn't take pictures of all the steps, but the form of your corset really comes along nicely by just repeating the steps (pin both new pattern pieces to the pattern pieces 2 (right on right), sew, iron, and make the bone casing).

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I will stop the tutorial today when you have sewn all your pieces together:

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Jade said...

These corset posts have made me appreciate my sewing friends even more. :) Well, I thought before they were wizards and sorceresses but now I consider them (and you) as demigods. :D

MindLess said...

@ Jade: But actually it is not that hard. If you have a good pattern, it is mainly pinning exactly and sewing straight lines... But of course I would accept chocolate sacrifices! ^^

Marzi Panik said...

Danke für deine ausführlichen Tutorials. :)
Mein letztes Korsett ist jetzt schon so viele Jahre her, dass ich mich gar nicht mehr drantraue. ^^

MindLess said...

@ Marzi Panik: Gerne doch! Ist zwar echt viel Arbeit, aber vielleicht helfe ich ja irgendwem... Und Korsett nähen ist wie Fahrrad fahren, das verlernt man nicht!