Friday, June 26, 2015

Panty sewing 1 (with bonus panty)

With this entry I will not only show you another panty I made, but I'll also go step by step through panty sewing. Tomorrow I'll post another option to hem the panties, so stay tuned! The panty we will make today is the left over fabric of the Lip Service dagger jersey (which is not exactly true as I still have about 20 cm² left) with neon green elastic lace I got on the last Fabric Market!

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Let us start with the pattern: While mine unfortunately is not commercially or anyhow available for you, there are plenty of patterns for download. This here for example, or this or that or this... So, you should get your pattern ready (download, glue together and cut out or buy and cut out or draft yourself and cut out) and some fabric. I need about 50 x 70 cm for my panties. If you'll use elastic bias tape for the hems, you'll need 1-2m for the panty (depending on size). If you hem with a twin needle, you should have that handy and two cones of yarn. Let's get started!

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I cut out my fabric pieces. As you can see, in my pattern the crotch is elongated from the front piece. Make for one less seam! I started with pinning all three pieces together:

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The crotch piece has to wrong side up, so the nice print ends up visible! I sewed the seam with a serger, but a tight zig zag stitch on your sewing machine will do!
Next up is the other seam to fixate the crotch piece:

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Initially I folded the seam allowance under before I sewed but
  • this was very fidly
  • and it looks just as nice to use a  zig zag stitch over the fabric border. See?
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Next thing is the leg openings. For this panty I used elastic lace made for underwear. It is very stretchy which is good for blood circulation and invisible panty lines! While pinning the lace to the fabric, I fold the seam allowance under and stretch the lace slightly:

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I use my sewing machine with a zig zag stitch again to sew everything together. My stitch is 3mm long and 2.5 mm wide, in case you are interested! I go once around each leg opening with the lace.

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Next, I close the first side seam (in my case with a serger, otherwise just use the same zig zag stitch again! I close one seam first as this allows for prettier lace application at the waist. So remember, only close one side seam first!

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While I was at it, I took a picture of how I deal with serger threads. If you just cut them straight at the end of the seam, the seam will rip sooner or later. I used a big blunt needle (actually for sewing knitted clothes together) and pull the threads back into the seam:

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Next I pin and sew the lace around the waist line. Just the same as with the leg openings!

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Then I close the other side seam and pull the threads into the seam. If you use zig zag, you can just use your regular back stitching to keep the seam from unraveling.

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Aaaaaaand we are done! Pretty, comfortable panties in next to no time. I make mine in under 1h, but I have made several ones, so you first trial may be a little longer!

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Ramona said...

die is bisher am hübschesten! lip service und grüne spitze, was kanns besseres geben ^_^ aber wie viel platz hast denn nun noch für die ganzen slips *lol* machst ja grad ne armee?

Anonymous said...

Diese Reihe ist so cool! Ich beneide dich soooo um den Lip Service Stoff. Wobei die Idee eigene Panties zu nähen einfach nur genial ist! LG Tea

MindLess said...

@ Ramona: Dachte ich mir, dass sie dir gefällt! Ich liebe die Kombi auch sehr... Ich habe meine Unterwäscheschublade ausgemistet und ersetze jetzt die gegangenen Plinten. Also noch geht es! ;)

@ coffeexandxtea: Danke sehr! Der Lip Service Stoff war ein lange gehüteter Schatz, ich bin froh ihn jetzt endlich zu nutzen!

Janina said...

Schöne Anleitung, mach ich auch so. :) Mittlerweile nähe ich immer Wäschegummi an die Beinausschnitte, weil die dann auf Dauer nicht so ausleiern als wären sie nur gesäumt.

Sylvie D said...

I love that green trim

MindLess said...

@ Janina: Danke! Und gut, das von der Expertin zu hören. Ich verkaufe meinen Kram ja nicht... Ich mag manchmal die zusätzliche Elastizität von Zwillingsnähten. Und ich finde, dass man sie weniger durchdrücken sieht - wenn du verstehst was ich meine?!

@ Sylvie D: Thanks, girl! ^^

Bane said...

Love these! Thanks for the tutorial.

MindLess said...

@ Bane: You are welcome!

Vulcan_Butterfly said...

Great tutorial, I might even be able to do this without screwing it up! The purple and neon colours together are fantastic!!

MindLess said...

@ Vulcan Butterfly: Thanks for the compliment! I'd love to see you making new undies...