|right besides my index finger!|
I know it doesn't look much like my inspiration, but historical patterns generally are very basic, so you can decide about the decoration more freely (just compare the picture above with the picture when worn!). In this case, the pattern is for the hardly visible Taille underneath all that frills and covered mostly by some kind of scarf! Next, I started calculating and matching it to my proportions:
|Oops, this was already in the trash when I remember it might be interesting for you! Sorry!|
- You measure the neuralgic points (Chest, Waist, Hipline and the vertical distances between them) in the pattern and on yourself - it might be helpful to have someone taking your measurements as they depend strongly on your posture!
- By dividing the complete measures on the pattern by your own you get the factor of enlargement for this specific measurement. Example? My chest is 100cm, the pattern has 4 pieces which combine to 50cm. 50cm divided by 100cm is a factor of x2.
- Now for each pattern piece you will have to enlarge by your factor. Example? The front middle piece is 6cm at the chest. to enlarge according to my own measurements, I'll take 6cm x2 (my "chest factor") and receive 12cm.
- Now repeat this for every measuring line you have (around the chest, waist and hip plus the vertical distances) and redraw the pattern in larger and adapted scale. I was lazy and simply drew them directly on my first musselin!
I was really lucky this time because the front fit perfectly the first time! The back was worse, I still had to figure out a lot about that. See?
|front is okay|
|look how small the hole for my arm is!|
|I can't even put the back shoulder strap on my shoulder!|
|Oops! Wrong placement! ^^|
So I used my last 3 corset panels and added a shoulder strap to them. Quick and dirty, but it works!