Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Party hard, party hard! -Taille pattern and trial version

After the skirt was finished, I needed to make the Taille next. I decided to skip the underlying corset for time constraints (sensible move, am I right?) and put some boning in the Taille itself. This is historically correct even if somewhat "risque" - because of the lack of underwear! ^^ Yet another reminder of what I'm going for:

right besides my index finger!
Next, I looked for a pattern I could base my Taille on. I was looking for a historical pattern to match to my own size for preferably free. And I found it on the Marquise website - which is by the way a great resource for historical sewing and available in German and English! The pattern I chose was this one:


I know it doesn't look much like my inspiration, but historical patterns generally are very basic, so you can decide about the decoration more freely (just compare the picture above with the picture when worn!). In this case, the pattern is for the hardly visible Taille underneath all that frills and covered mostly by some kind of scarf! Next, I started calculating and matching it to my proportions:

Oops, this was already in the trash when I remember it might be interesting for you! Sorry!
Yes, this looks confusing, but it is actually not that hard! You need a ruler, a calculator, more paper (preferably larger sheets) and some musselin fabric you don't mind to put into a trial version.
  • You measure the neuralgic points (Chest, Waist, Hipline and the vertical distances between them) in the pattern and on yourself - it might be helpful to have someone taking your measurements as they depend strongly on your posture!
  • By dividing the complete measures on the pattern by your own you get the factor of enlargement for this specific measurement. Example? My chest is 100cm, the pattern has 4 pieces which combine to 50cm. 50cm divided by 100cm is a factor of  x2.
  • Now for each pattern piece you will have to enlarge by your factor. Example? The front middle piece is 6cm at the chest. to enlarge according to my own measurements, I'll take 6cm x2 (my "chest factor") and receive 12cm.
  • Now repeat this for every measuring line you have (around the chest, waist and hip plus the vertical distances) and redraw the pattern in larger and adapted scale. I was lazy and simply drew them directly on my first musselin!
I know this sounds very complicated but unlike just enlarging your overall pattern, you generally get a better fit in the first musselin this way. Otherwise -if you simply copy the pattern pieces larger- you will receive a musselin fit to the original mannequin the designer made this pattern for. Not unlike H&M or other stores, that make up a "perfect" body and design for this.

I was really lucky this time because the front fit perfectly the first time! The back was worse, I still had to figure out a lot about that. See?

front is okay
look how small the hole for my arm is!
I can't even put the back shoulder strap on my shoulder!
Oops! Wrong placement! ^^
Especially the shoulder strap needed some help. And now I "cheated" and used my much beloved corset pattern to make up the back of my Taille. Otherwise I would have tried to adapt the pattern pieces from my musselin to my dress form/me, but this takes a lot of time and you already know that my deadline is close.

So I used my last 3 corset panels and added a shoulder strap to them. Quick and dirty, but it works!


Neisella Nightmare said...

Gute Idee! Für Perfektionismus ist ein andres Mal Zeit ;-)

Wollmaus said...

Ich finde deine Vorgehensweise super. Warum nicht einfach Schnitte kombinieren? Gerade bei einer knappen Zeitvorgabe!

MindLess said...

@ Neisi: Jaja, der Perfektionismus... Der wurde bei mir irgendwie vergessen! ^^

@ wollmaus: Danke! Ich bin nicht faul, nur kreativ! ^^

Xanthy said...

Oh, ich hab gerade dein Kommentar gesehen! Ich fragte mich schon warum ich dich nicht gesehen hatte... Schade. Gute Besserung, und ich hoffe, wir sehen uns ein anderes Mal! <3