Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Party hard, party hard! - Skirt sewing

I started with he skirt because it's much easier than the Taille and doesn't require that much fitting. Just a short reminder; this is what I was going for in looks (on the upper right corner):


I already had  a bought crinoline (I got it from Nachtkatze, who unfortunately closed her store) with a circumference of 3.8m.


I also had the bat skirt from last year's WGT, which proved to be a very variable Skirt. Every goth girl should have a floor length circle skirt with a ruffle! It only took me 7 years to realize that! ^^


The over skirt will be in eight panels which will be rushed to make this arched effect. The pattern design was a quick and easy one:
  • measure around your waist and divide by 8
  • guestimate the hemline circumference (I decided to do 4m since that is easily divided by 8 and is larger than the crinoline)
  • decide on how long you want to make your panel - you will need about 1.5 times the length you are really going for, I used the full width of the fabric here (1.5m)
  • add seam allowance - I used 1.5cm each because I wanted to sew tunnels for rushing
  • draw your pattern!

When cutting the panels remember that you will need 8 of them, I accidentally cut 9. Which in the end turned out to be better because I had some strange sticky goo on one panel which refused to be washed out!
The next step was to iron and serge the panels. Serging because satin is Satan's fray brother and pulls threads whenever you look to hard at it. I ironed the panels because I used my fabric without a straight grain and this leads to pulling and puckering of the fabric. I then sewed the panels together to create a dome:

Never mind the trial version of the Taille!
I added a waistband which was made by a tunnel and wide elastic - not historically accurate by any means, but comfy if you intend to wear the skirt with several different corsets. And I hemmed the skirt. The last step was to sew tunnels and pull satin ribbon through them. Now the skirt is fully adaptable for several lengths! I tied nice bows at the end of the tunnels and was done with the skirt!



Xanthy said...

Oh, it looks lovely!
That's pretty much my go-to pattern for overskirts, it's so simple and always looks good!

MindLess said...

@ Xanthy: Thanks! Yes the pattern is great and very easy. I almost feel like a Miss know-it-all by explaining it...

linnea-maria said...

Oh it turned out lovely!! So perfect that you already had the under skirt :)

Insomniac's Attic said...

Wow, you make it all look so easy!

Satin is Satan's fray brother - boy, you got that right ... ;o)

MindLess said...

@ linnea-maria: Otherwise making the deadline would be impossible! This also means that I do have some clothes in case I don't finish my 1860s outfit.

@ Insomniac's Attic: Actually, the skirt is pretty easy. But working with satin is never fun. It just looks so good! ^^

Neisella Nightmare said...

Neisella ist begeistert :D Schön siehts aus bisher. Ich freu mich so auf die Taille! Das wird umwerfend ^.^

MindLess said...

@ Neisi: Neuer Name? Danke fürs Kompliment, ich freu mich auf den tollen Abend mit euch! <3

Trisha said...

*___* wie der stoff glitzert! du wirst so toll aussehen, du grüne sahnetorte <3 :)

MindLess said...

@ Trisha: Eigentlich sieht der Stoff eher so aus:


Aber er lässt sich verdammt schwer fotografieren! Und danke für Sahnetorten-Kompliment! ^^

Trisha said...

ich weiss, den hattest du doch letztes mal dabei und nicht mehr aufgehört zu streicheln ^^ aber für mich ist das noch grün :D

MindLess said...

Das grün leugnet ja auch keiner, aber glitzern... hmmm...